Travel

15Apr/11Off

Family outings for spring

If a pink cartoon pig doesn't do it for your kids, there is lots more that's new at Britain's family attractions and theme parks this year

Madame Tussauds, Blackpool

The world's 12th Madame Tussauds (0871 282 9200, madametussauds.com) opens in Blackpool on 21 April. Take the kids to see heroes including David Beckham, Cheryl Cole and Ant and Dec. Adults may have to explain who "Blackpool Originals" Barbara Windsor, Benny Hill and Ken Dodd are.
• Book online and go before 8 May for £7.20pp, or before 1 July for £9.60pp

Pleasure Beach, Blackpool

Several characters are making the leap from screens to screams at Nickelodeon Land (0871 222 1234, nick.co.uk/nickelodeonland) opening on 4 May at Blackpool Pleasure Beach. Try SpongeBob's Splash Bash, the Avatar Airbender, or the Rugrats Lost River.
• Wristbands for a family of four £86 online at blackpoolpleasurebeach.com

Camelot Theme Park, Lancashire

The new King Arthur's Birds of Prey Centre at this park near Chorley (01257 453044, camelotthemepark.co.uk) will wow young ornithologists. Eagles, owls, vultures and hawks take to the skies in two displays a day. As well as rides, there are daily jousting displays, and magic shows with Merlin himself.
• Tickets for a family of four £64 online, £70 at the gate

Martin Mere Wetland Centre, Lancashire

Explore this wetland centre (01704 895181, wwt.org.uk/martin-mere), by boat this year. Three people take to a Canadian-style canoe on a self-guided journey around reed beds, woodland and swamp, spotting wildlife.
• Tickets for family of four £26.50. £5 per canoe; groups can pre-book

Legoland Discovery Centre, Manchester

Little wizards and witches will love a new ride, Merlin's Apprentice, at the Legoland Discovery Centre (0871 222 2662, legolanddiscoverycentre.co.uk/manchester) in the Trafford Centre. Each pod goes faster and higher the harder the kids pedal.
• Minimum ride height 90cm. Tickets for a family of four from £30 online

Chester Zoo

Painted Dogs is a new African-themed area at Chester Zoo (01244 380280, chesterzoo.org), with porcupines and a pack of seven African hunting dogs. Later they will be joined by sociable guinea pig-like rock hyraxes.
• Tickets for a family of four are £55, including an optional £5 donation to conservation programmes.

Drayton Manor, Staffordshire

Ben 10: Ultimate Mission is a new roller coaster based on the cartoon show, from 23 April at this park near Tamworth (0844 472 1950, draytonmanor.co.uk). And the fun starts while you're in the queue.
• Ride opens on 23 April. Tickets for a family of four £98

Alton Towers, Staffordshire

As well as all the rides, Alton Towers (0871 222 3330, altontowers.com) has arts and science offerings for children over Easter. The Go!Go!Go! show in the Cloud Cuckoo Land Theatre is a live pop musical, and Mad Science is an interactive range of explosions and experiments – don't miss the water rocket launches on the front lawns.
• Tickets for a family of four from £102

At-Bristol

Children with a scientific bent will like All About Us, a new permanent exhibition about the human body at At-Bristol (0845 345 1235, at-bristol.org.uk). More than 50 exhibits bring biology to life, and there is even a real human brain to examine. Activities in the Live Lab over the holidays include dissection and DNA extraction.
• Tickets for a family of four, £35.50, including voluntary Gift Aid donation

Blue Reef Aquarium, Newquay

The snappy new attraction at Blue Reef (01637 878134, bluereefaquarium.co.uk) is Mini-Crocs, a South American habitat home to two dwarf caimans. Over the holidays, there is a series of predator-themed talks and workshops.
• Tickets for a family of four £31.60

Crealy, Devon and Cornwall

The two Crealy Great Adventure Parks (01395 233200/01841 540276, crealy.co.uk) boast indoor and outdoor rides, and friendly animals. New at the Devon site are meerkats, marmosets and alpacas, plus the Crealy Show Dome, a big top with daily shows. The Cornish site has a new Dizzy Dina ride, and a pony area where everyone wins a rosette.
• Tickets £14.45pp for four or more

Longleat Safari and Adventure Park, Wiltshire

Jungle Kingdom, a new attraction at Longleat (01985 844400, longleat.co.uk) this year, boasts a walk-through meerkat enclosure and miniature monkeys. Visitors can now hand-feed rainbow lorikeets, giraffes and fallow deer. New arrivals include wildebeest, white rhinos, giant anteaters and cape crested porcupines. • Online tickets £23.40 adults, £16.65 children; 10% more at the gate

The London Dungeon

On 28 May, the London Dungeon (0871 423 2240, thedungeons.com) launches Vengeance, a "5D" laser ghost ride. Riders are taken back to a séance in what was said to be the most haunted house in London. And new for Easter is an enhanced version of the Jack the Ripper experience.
• Minimum ride height 1.1m. Tickets from £17.33pp online

Paultons Park, Hampshire

Pre-schoolers will be excited about Peppa Pig World (02380 814442, peppapigworld.co.uk) new at Paultons Family Theme Park in the New Forest. As well as rides and various buildings from the show, there is Daddy Pig's Big Tummy Café and Miss Rabbit's Ice-cream Parlour. The Guardian's three- and five-year-old reviewers gave a big thumbs-up to George's Dinosaur Adventure ride and the Muddy Puddles mini-water park. Dad's advice: bring lots of towels.
• Tickets for a family of four £74 online at paultonspark.co.uk or £80 on the gate; children under a metre tall free

Chessington World of Adventures, Surrey

Chessington (0871 663 4477, chessington.com) is celebrating the 21st birthday of its Vampire rollercoaster until 1 May. The new Twilight Zone is an interactive dark walkthrough with screams around every corner. The first 21 children to arrive in vampire dress each day get in free. Over in the Sea Life centre, Azteca is a new display featuring sharks, rays and parrotfish.
• Tickets for a family of four £88.80 online, £102 at the gate

Adventure Island, Southend

This is Enchantment weekend in Southend's amusement park (01702 443400, adventureisland.co.uk) with Shaolin monks, stilt walkers and more. New rides include a Kiddi Koasta at the end of April, and the terrifying Time Machine roller coaster in summer.
• Wristbands from £7.75 to £23

Thorpe Park, Surrey

New at Thorpe Park (0871 663 1673, thorpepark.com) is Storm Surge, a sky-high spinning ride involving a life raft, a 64ft spiral descent and a line of water cannons. Last one down's a sissy ...
• Minimum ride height 1.1m. Tickets for a family of four £96 online or £105.60 on the gate

W5, Belfast

This Easter at Northern Ireland's award-winning discovery centre (028-9046 7700, w5online.co.uk), kids can try out a new Race the Rainbow egg race. At the Sense exhibition they can see if they've got what it takes to be the next Alex Rider – dodging detectors, cracking a safe – and they can learn about slime or make edible explosions in regular interteractive floorshows.
• Tickets for a family of four £23

Folly Farm, Pembrokeshire

Folly Farm (01834 812731, folly-farm.co.uk) is also a zoo, a funfair, an adventure playground and a classroom. Its new ride, the gentle Big Wheel, is suitable for all, from baby to grandma. Folly Interactive is a new sensory exhibit where visitors can get up close and personal with snakes and birds. But most memorable will probably be the "Whose Poo?" challenge.
• Adults £9, children £8

Scottish Storytelling Centre, Edinburgh

Every child loves a good story, and there's no better place to hear one than the Scottish Storytelling Centre (0131-556 9579, scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk). Over the holidays, it is hosting events as part of the Science Festival and Puppet Animation Festival. Among other delights, kids can learn why snot is green and meet the Big Bad Wolf.
• Entrance free, book for storytelling sessions, £4; performances from £4.50

United KingdomFamily holidaysDay tripsRachel Dixonguardian.co.uk
15Apr/11Off

Taking liberties: a jailbreak to San Diego

Every year, rag week students compete to get as far across the world as they can. Here's how the Guardian helped two of them to go to the west coast of the US, 5,500 miles away

It was around midday when I picked up the phone to an eager, breathless voice. "Hello! Is that the Guardian travel desk? I'm Sarah Malik and I am a student at Cambridge University and I'm taking part in a competition for charity. I'm in reception and I wondered if you could help – we have until 9pm tomorrow to get as far around the world as possible!"

Something about the excitement in her voice spurred me down the stairs to hear them out. Sarah and Alice were taking part in a rag week "jailbreak" stunt. Teams had 36 hours to get as far from their start point as possible. Last year's winners had made it to Washington DC, about 3,600 miles. The clock was ticking.

Using industry contacts I tried to get them last-minute flights to the world's furthest-flung destinations – New Zealand or South Africa. To no avail – but then Hotels.com came to my rescue. "How about San Diego? The flight goes from Heathrow in two and a half hours – can they make it?"

Course they could … and here's their story …
Gemma Bowes, Guardian travel editor

At 9am, 122 teams were gathered in a mock "jail" in Cambridge. We would all have 36 hours to blag, beg and busk our way around the globe. Each year the imagination of the teams reaches new heights. One year a team got to the Med without taking off their banana costumes; others were cautioned at the Parthenon in Athens for photographing each other dressed as cows.

In 2010 the prize was taken by a pair of amateur magicians who spent the weekend frantically busking to buy two tickets to Washington DC. When the go signal was fired, we joined in a mass stampede heading directly to the train station. We gamely rattled our purple collecting bucket until we'd collected enough coins to buy two £15 tickets to London. Once at King's Cross we felt braver – we had escaped Cambridge and a world of possibilities lay before us. We spent two hours trying to get sponsorship from firms before landing at the Guardian offices, where travel editor Gemma Bowes was our "Guardian angel". She eventually told us she had found us a flight to San Diego. We got to check-in with minutes to spare and boarded our United Airlines plane euphoric. San Diego is 5,500 miles from Cambridge, and as it was still just a few hours after the start, we were sure we were in first place.

Changing at Washington DC, we finally landed in San Diego, to sunshine and palm trees. A text told us that Hotels.com had found us a room, at the Hard Rock Hotel. The much-needed drink was illegal (the hotel cleared the mini-bar in our room), as we are under 21, so we explored. On 5th Avenue we found a Mexican restaurant – Tequila 100 (+1 619 233 2838, tequila100.net) – and ravenously consumed our American-sized portions.

The aim of the jailbreak is to do as much as possible without using your own money. We had £50 in dollars for security. We decided to spend the day checking out the area and were delighted to find that most of San Diego's interesting shops were on 4th and 5th Avenues, right by our hotel. We were smitten with the Bettie Page store (bettiepageclothing.com), which sells 1950s-style dresses. The shop owner found us perfect dresses to try on (with matching shoes and belts) and we posed in the window like pin-ups.

But there was plenty to see without spending a dime. The Exclusive Collection Gallery on 5th (ecgallery.com) was showing fine art from artists such as Michael Flohr, and at the Horton Plaza Mall (westfield.com/hortonplaza) we browsed in American classics such as Abercrombie & Fitch.

Our age and lack of funds (or smart clothes) meant the city's reputedly brilliant nightlife was off-limits, so we made do with a mountain of frozen yoghurt, piled high with fruit and sugary toppings, for just $5 at the

15Apr/11Off

Are hotel comparison sites a good deal?

As the OFT examines allegations that the hotel booking industry is breaching competition law, we investigate whether comparison sites still offer value for money

Laterooms.com promises hotel rooms at "unutterably low prices". Lastminute.com guarantees the lowest prices, while Booking.com offers a "best price promise". Yet when Guardian Money tested prices for a two-day getaway to Edinburgh over the royal wedding weekend they were nearly identical – and significantly more expensive than on rival comparison websites.

To test the hotel sites we selected three different hotels: a Sheraton in New York, a Hilton in Berlin, and a Malmaison in Edinburgh. We sought prices for two nights for two people, on the weekend of 29 April to 1 May.

The good news is that shopping around works. In Edinburgh, while the major booking sites all wanted £260 to £280 for two nights at the Malmaison, the surprise winner was Asda, whose hotel booking site found us the same hotel for £229.57 – a saving of more than £50. The price also included breakfast, which is unusual when most websites sell at "room only" prices.

Our survey suggests it is best to bypass sites such as lastminute.com, Travelocity or Expedia and instead go to websites that scan every travel website for the best deal. We found Asda's cheap price on the Malmaison by going through travelsupermarket.com. It also found the cheapest deal at the Hilton in Berlin – the underlying provider was travelrepublic.co.uk – and at the Sheraton in New York, where the underlying provider was lowcostusa.co.uk

Hotelsearchengines.net and kayak.co.uk use a similar model, and also found us better value deals than Expedia and Travelocity. But it pays to spend time looking at two or more websites – although Kayak turned up decent deals in the Hilton and the Sheraton, for instance, it found us the most expensive room at the Malmaison. Examine carefully the prices quoted; some headline deals did not include tax or were for the wrong dates.

Generally, we found that going direct to the hotel's own website failed to pay off – prices were the same as those charged by the big operators and higher than on the comparison sites.

The similar pricing by the Hilton and Sheraton hotels was striking. In part, this is because websites have common owners: lastminute.com is in the same group as travelocity.com; Expedia controls hotels.com, hotwire.com, tripadvisor.com and venere.com. Booking.com is owned by priceline.com.

The gap in pricing between the major players was just £1-£3 which, arguably, could represent price competition as they chase prices down. But the Office of Fair Trading is examining allegations of price fixing at hotel websites. The investigation began last September but, in a statement last week, the OFT said it is now an "administrative priority" and that it is "pursuing the investigation further".

If the hotel booking industry is found guilty of breaching competition law the fines could be substantial. The OFT can fine companies up to 10% of their global turnover for breaches of competition rules. Last year it fined cigarette makers and retailers £225m for price fixing.

The OFT investigation follows allegations by a small Brighton-based hotel booking website, Skoosh.co.uk. Dorian Harris, founder of the site, said his business started to be squeezed by big US hotel chains insisting they were removed from his site as his prices were below that of competitors.

"It became more of a worry when it moved to Europe, and by March last year I was getting as many as 10 complaints a day from hotels, from major chains through to small independent hotels. The hotels told me they were being put under huge pressure by the big hotel booking websites to ensure what's called 'rate parity'." Unless he raised his prices, he would be prevented from offering the rooms.

As an example, Harris showed Money an email from a hotel in Prague. Booking.com had warned the hotel that it wasn't at parity with Skoosh.com, saying: "You can only succeed in online sales if you have ongoing parity." The hotel owner, who copied Booking.com's warning to Skoosh, said this was a "very big problem" and asked him to change the rate quoted.

Harris has consulted competition lawyers who told him that enforcing rate parity could be illegal. The sites argue rate parity does not constitute anti competitive behaviour or infringe any law.

Harris does not claim that in each and every case his site could offer lower prices than the major players. He acknowledges that as much as 70% of his quotes could be beaten. But in the 30% where he was cheaper, he came under pressure to charge the same as competitors. "It could be that we were selling the room at £100, but elsewhere it was at £130. But I had hotels telling me they wanted to come off the site if we were even £1 cheaper than the majors. It's been cripplingly difficult to run a business."

Hotel booking websites hire individuals to act as rate monitors to check that no one is undercutting them. A current job advert for Booking.com, shows that the company wants to hire a "rate parity associate" in which "you are part of a team that is responsible for finding and solving any rate inconsistencies between Booking.com and their competitors". The person will be expected to "solve rate parity issues" if they arise.

Harris has passed a dossier to the OFT of the emails and letters, and says he has been in touch with the watchdog regularly. "The price comparison sites have been a great thing for consumers, but now as people are not seeing different prices there's almost no point in going to them," he says. Harris adds that, typically, booking websites don't buy rooms direct from the hotel chains or even the independents.

"Distribution of hotel rooms is handled by wholesalers as no hotel group wants to deal with thousands of agents all over the world. The wholesalers give us a net rate and we add a margin, usually around 25%. The wholesaler itself takes around 10%-15%. We don't make huge profits on these margins. Sometimes we sell below 25%, sometimes above."

Money asked Booking.com and Expedia for comment on the OFT investigation and the allegations by Skoosh.com. Neither had responded by the time we went to press.

The guessing game

Are "top secret" hotels the best way for budget-conscious travellers to save money? Lastminute.com pioneered the concept in the UK, and in recent weeks Hotwire.com, a large US operator of secret hotel deals, has launched in Britain. It promises savings of up to 50% by selling off, at bargain prices, the four out of 10 bedrooms that are left vacant in hotels every night.

The drawback is you don't know precisely what you're getting until after you buy. All you're told is the general location and star rating. This has provoked consumers to try and guess the hotel before committing. Martin Lewis of moneysavingexpert.com says: "Copy and paste all or part of the hotel description into Google. Often, it just uses the hotels standard description text that also appears on its website." If that doesn't work, try secrethotelsrevealed.co.uk, although it's a bit hit and miss. The biggest discounts come from the four- and five-star hotels – you're unlikely to find 50% off a hotel that only charges £60 a night.

Unfortunately, you can end up paying more than booking in the conventional way, as one London couple discovered. Planning to spend a few days in Paris, Jon Law and Helena Bonett, who live in Highgate, north London tried Expedia's Secret Saver Hotel option. They were, attracted by the promise of savings of "up to 50%".

"The hotel we chose was advertised as a four-star in the Latin Quarter and we paid £555 for a room for four nights. However, once we'd made our booking we found the 'secret' hotel was in Montparnasse – over a mile from its advertised location – and wasn't four star. The hotel's website didn't appear to show any stars at all."

Worse: rather than saving 40%, they had paid 53% more than if booking the room in the normal way.

"A direct booking via the hotel's website was substantially cheaper than our 'saver' rate, and double rooms were also being sold on Expedia at almost £200 less than what we paid for the so-called 'saver' deal," says Jon.

They printed screenshots to show over-payment, but despite emails to Expedia, no one responded.

A spokeswoman for Expedia apologised for the problems the couple experienced.

"We have investigated Mr Law's issue and a fix has been implemented to resolve the rate issue he experienced. Mr Law has been refunded in line with our best-price guarantee and has been issued him with a gesture of goodwill. With regards to location, the postcode of this hotel is exactly on the border of two 'arrondissements', so is categorised under both areas on our site." Miles Brignall and Patrick Collinson

Consumer affairsConsumer rightsSaving moneyHotelsPatrick Collinsonguardian.co.uk
15Apr/11Off

Travel insurers offer hollow promises

Eurostar sold a reader a pricey Mondial travel insurance policy, and him the runaround when he tried to claim

You behave impeccably, filling in forms, answering questions and despatching certificates swiftly. They fail to answer phones, ignore letters, put up obstacles and delay payments. Welcome to the world of making a travel insurance claim.

It's around this time of the year that I receive press releases from travel companies urging Brits to buy cover, with the usual synthetic concern over travellers heading abroad without proper insurance.

This one, from Mondial Assistance, is typical: "MAKING THE MOST OF THE EGGS-TRA LONG EASTER BREAK? But don't cut corners on travel insurance."

One Guardian Money reader took Mondial at its word. While buying a short break in Paris and Luxembourg, the Eurostar sales- person, acting as an agent for Mondial, convinced him to buy seven-day cover for his wife and himself at (a pricey) £57. The tickets, which cost around £400, were non-refundable, but if anything went wrong beforehand, and he had to cancel, Mondial would pay up.

Something did, indeed, happen. His wife's uncle died, and, with the funeral on the day they had planned to be in Paris, our reader cancelled and claimed £432.50. The policy was clear that cancellation as a result of the death of a relative, including uncles, was covered.

That was in September. Our reader has kept a diary since of his dealings with Mondial Assistance. It's a tale of intrusive demands, persistent delays and obstacles and, finally, six months later, a much-reduced payout. First, Mondial wanted details of all his bank accounts, including account numbers. It wanted to know if he had insurance through his bank, so it could bounce the cost on to that. It told him it would not pay the cost of obtaining a copy of the death certificate. It asked for any other insurances he may have, and demanded he fill in a complicated and inappropriate medical form.

It took until December before Mondial acted – it said it was "experiencing a high volume of claims", an excuse our reader encountered frequently. Then Mondial decided the death certificate wasn't enough – it wanted the uncle's GP to fill in forms, too. It also asked for more proof that he had not received a refund from Euro- star, even though the train tickets were clearly marked non-refundable.

Some weeks later, Mondial decided that the GP's letter was not sufficient. It wanted permission for free access to the dead person's medical records. All this for a £432 claim. Eventually, in March, it agreed a payout, but when the cheque did finally arrive, Mondial deducted two £50 excesses, one for his wife and one for him.

But our reader is no pushover. He's no less than a Professor of Law at the University of Cambridge, and his Mondial diary is eloquent testimony to the hollow promises of insurers.

When Guardian Money contacted Mondial, it said it followed standard procedures, and that everything was in the terms and conditions. But, in respect of the delays, it repaid the £100 excess as a "gesture of goodwill".

A final thought. Why are the likes of Mondial so keen to establish that you have cover through your bank account when you make a claim, but so quiet about it when selling you a policy?

Travel insuranceInsuranceConsumer rightsConsumer affairsPatrick Collinsonguardian.co.uk
15Apr/11Off

Heathrow plans underground heating to tackle winter freeze

Heathrow airport operator BAA working on plans to use geothermal energy to stop parked planes getting stuck in ice

When temperatures plunged below zero last December and Heathrow ground to a halt, the festive travel plans of around one million passengers were left in tatters. Now the managers of Europe's busiest airport have dreamed up a solution to prevent a repeat of the nightmare before Christmas: underfloor heating, but on a massive scale.

BAA, which runs Heathrow, is exploring technology to capture the heat of the summer sun as it beats down on the airport's asphalt and store it until winter to keep the planes moving. The idea, which combines the principles of Roman central heating with 21st-century renewable energy technology, is intended to stop planes becoming stuck in ice on their stands, which was the main cause of the problems last year.

Heathrow could not operate at full capacity for five days after an hour-long snowstorm dumped nearly 13cm (5in) of snow followed by a sudden drop in temperature. There was anger that Heathrow was so easily crippled and Philip Hammond, the transport secretary, ordered an immediate review. It identified "a low state of preparedness" for snow that was forecast many days ahead and a lack of specialised equipment to clear it. Hammond said climate change could mean more regular repeats of the extreme temperatures that forced thousands of passengers to sleep in terminal buildings.

"It is not the snow that caused problems last year, it was the ice," Steve Morgan, BAA's capital projects director, told Building magazine. "We are working on a concept to capture geothermal energy from the surface of the Tarmac … during the summer to then provide a heating capability so the stands don't freeze in the winter. We would store the energy underground and use it to gently heat water that would run through pipes in freezing conditions to warm the stands, which are the slabs of concrete directly beneath the planes, to just above zero."

The cost of the project is yet to be estimated, but Morgan said it could be paid for by postponing a facelift for one of the terminals, such is the level of concern at Heathrow's collapse in the winter.

BAA is working with an unnamed private company on the plan, which would require digging sump holes up to 10m deep to fit technology to store energy and pump warmed water under the stands. Only the areas beneath the wheels and where crews need to inspect and load the planes would need to be warmed.

Another option, which involves pumping water from deep underground, which is naturally above freezing even in cold conditions, up towards the frozen surface, is also being explored.

Heathrow has 200 stands, but to limit costs the idea could be rolled out to just a few to at least keep some flights moving.

Morgan said he believed the project was viable, adding that Heathrow would probably be the first airport to try it.

• This article was amended on 15 April 2011. The original referred to British Airports Authority, which runs Heathrow. This has been corrected.

HeathrowFlightsBAATravel & leisureWeatherAir transportRobert Boothguardian.co.uk
12Apr/11Off

Hotel review: The Gallivant, Camber

With a relaxed, beach-house vibe and a chef from Tate Modern, this new seaside hotel gets you in the mood for gallivanting

I am reliably informed that this small hotel used to be called The Place. The Place at Camber Sands has a nice ring but, now in new hands, it has a fresh identity as The Gallivant.

Hélène, my London-dwelling French friend, has started gallivanting early. "They were offering free samples," she says, waving at the champagne bar at St Pancras station.

"How many did you try?"

"About six," she replies with a Gallic shrug, and hauls her luggage on to the train. We are whisked southwards, into rainy skies. By the time we reach the motel-style building across the road from Camber's wonderful dunes, needles of rain are lashing.

"Those won't recover from the winter freeze-up," says Hélène, surveying a sorry brown mass of palm trees as we dash for the door.

From reception – adjacent to the encouragingly seasidey Beach Bistro in which we'll be eating later – we are shown past the guest sitting room to our twin room (there are 18 in total).

"Lovely to see pins parasols from our window – you get those in Provence," says Hélène, peering across the car park to a row of umbrella pines. A distressed wooden unit bears a large Samsung telly, a wicker tray with kettle (marks for teapot and big teacups, but no cafetiere) and Ty Nant water. There are tide tables, brand new paperbacks and vintage hardbacks. Each (very comfy) bed has a wall light.

And – hello, I've seen this before, at Shoreditch Rooms in London – no wardrobe, but a row of Shaker-style pegs with shaving mirror, bathrobes and a stripy beach bag containing a picnic rug. Our only complaints are that we'd rather have bathroom shelves than a blue rubber duck, and a blind at the bedroom window.

In general, the hotel appears child-friendly (room info is comprehensive in terms of things to do if it rains, if it shines, etc). They discourage children under 10 in the bistro after 8pm, which seems reasonable, especially as in summer there will also be barbecues on a covered terrace, where all ages will be welcome any time.

"This place doesn't look much from outside – but inside it has lovely light and a casual beach-house vibe," says Hélène over the papers in the guest sitting room before we drift to the bistro for dinner at a candlelit table. There is a bar at the rear with draught ale, the menu comes with a cocktail selection, we call the background music "airport xylophone", and Hélène says the Lighthouse Bakery bread, which arrives with salt and a butter pat, looks "biblical".

The menu is enticing yet unfussy. Rye Bay scallops with soured onions and a dark green pool of watercress puree get "10 out of 10", and so does a perfectly juicy grilled lemon sole. There are mussels, and clam stew, but I order roast Sussex black-leg chicken, which comes with celeriac chips and parsley butter – it's really good.

Breakfast consists of a full menu of cooked stuff, but also the most attractive hotel buffet I have yet to see, arranged around driftwood on a wooden trestle at the heart of the restaurant. Little Kilner jars of this and that, labelled on tiny chalked slates, dishes of dark red berry and apple compote, heavy glass jars of cereals.

"Well, you can say it's delicious," instructs Hélène, polishing off smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. To which I'll add, bravo – roll on summer.
sally.shalam@guardian.co.uk

HotelsSussexUnited KingdomBeach holidaysShort breaksWeekend breaksSally Shalamguardian.co.uk
8Apr/11Off

Spotting leopards in Oman

In the mountains of Oman, visitors can join the only conservation project in the world trying to save the endangered – and elusive – Arabian leopard

Khalid stopped the pick-up truck and inspected the ground ahead in the light of the headlamps. There were a few tiny greyish plants on a gently convex plateau of jagged loose rocks. It felt like we had landed on a small and rather inhospitable planet. There was no track, and hadn't been for the past few miles – not since we had stopped to look at a wolf track in the dust.

"This is it," he said, "our campsite." He grinned. "It's not as bad as it looks: there'll be enough firewood to boil a kettle, and in the morning – you'll see – it's a good view."

The rest of the team were coming up in two cars. "And leopards?" I asked, "Are they here?"

Khalid made a face. "Insha'Allah [God willing]. There's a trail camera near here which we'll check tomorrow." He jumped out of the car and started unloading, a man used to this life of remote camps in the Dhofar mountains of Oman.

As a wildlife protection officer with Oman's Arabian leopard project, Khalid is on the front line when it comes to saving one of the world's rarest creatures. There are probably fewer than 200 individual Arabian leopards left in the wild, mostly in Oman, Yemen and Saudi Arabia. A few others, probably not viable populations, cling to life in Israel, Jordan and the UAE.

Oman has the only programme to conserve the wild leopards – an estimated 50 animals live in the mountains lining the country's Indian Ocean coast close to Yemen, around half of them in a protected area.

This is wild country, a place where the British army fought a forgotten war against communism in the 1970s, a place once famous for its production of frankincense. Its people are the Jebali, hardy, semi-nomadic camel-herders whose mother tongue is not Arabic but an ancient South Arabian language related to that once spoken by the Queen of Sheba. Khalid is from that community: a former shepherd, he once hated the leopard but is now converted, with total conviction, to preserving this astonishing creature.

Around the campfire, we sip sweet tea and eat biscuits under a vast vault of stars. We have come here with a group of Yemenis, all eager to learn how the Omanis created Arabia's only genuine wildlife reserve. If the leopard is to survive, Yemen is the key, because it has plenty of the type of environment the animal needs. Sadly it lacks the resources, the knowledge and the organisational skills required. The only efforts are coming from the Foundation for the Protection of the Arabian Leopard in Yemen which gallantly soldiers on without much support from the outside world. No surprise in that of course, since Yemen is normally only mentioned in the media in conjunction with tales of politics or terrorism.

Visitors from other countries do come to Oman though. Conservation volunteer organisation Biosphere Expeditions arranges short volunteer placements to work with Khalid, and he's adamant that the foreign presence is important. "They do useful work helping us survey the mountains for leopards," he says. "And it makes a good impression for conservation with the Jebali community. We try to buy supplies from the locals, too."

Next day we trek down a steep mountainside, so steep that one team member gets vertigo and has to be helped back to camp. In gulches and canyons there are some hardy plants, including the frankincense tree, a species that made this area economically important centuries ago. The only sign of human presence, however, is some cartridge shells from the Oman-Yemen war of the 1970s.

Down in the wadi, we follow its bed until it stops at a vertical edge – now dry but obviously scoured by water in the rainy season. There are rock hyrax droppings everywhere – a vital sign as leopards love to eat these small mammals. We don't see any animals though, until we locate the trail camera that Khalid left here a month before.

We cluster around, eager to see the digital images as Khalid flicks through them: the rear end of an oryx, the hunched figure of a striped hyena, then lots of blurred shots of hyrax scuttling past. There are no leopards, but I'm getting the idea now: this is a ghost safari, a trip where the only means of putting together the landscape and its inhabitants is the motion-triggered remote camera. This understanding is like a light bulb coming on. Suddenly all those shy, non-tourist-friendly creatures of the world can be part of the international business of tourism and conservation – and that could be vital for their survival.

And it is a gorgeous colourful world that we view later on a laptop back at the camp. Dusty rocks burst into life with wolves, hyenas, antelopes and more. No leopards, however, and as I wriggle into my sleeping bag under the stars, I allow myself a small pang of anxiety: what if we don't catch a leopard image? It's vital for the film I am making there with Al-Jazeera.

I'm drifting off to sleep, noting the cold wind that has kicked up, when I hear shouts from Nasser, one of the Yemeni trainees. I am

8Apr/11Off

A Swedish island holm of your own

Having a Swedish island to yourself gives you the chance to chill out, get close to nature … and pretend to be lord of the manor

"Henriksholm is not a place for people who keep their thumbs in the middle of their hands," our host Staffan informed my girlfriend and me rather enigmatically on picking us up from the succinctly named railway station of Ed.

We added this intriguing titbit to the tiny stockpile of information we had managed to garner about the place prior to setting off the day before from St Pancras. Our intelligence ran to this: Henriksholm is a skinny three-mile-long island on a lake in Dalsland, western Sweden; the only building on it designed for permanent residence is a gorgeous old mansion never before let to visitors; and now this new thing about the thumbs. What we were childishly excited about was that for a few days we were going to live like a lord and lady in our very own country house on our very own island. All our delusions of grandeur satisfied at once.

However, since we arrived rather late in the day, the wiry, bald and thoroughly outdoorsy Staffan took us for our first night to Stenebynäs, 20 miles or so from Henriksholm, where he lives with his wife, Maria, and their children. His is no ordinary home, it turns out, but a former orphanage, whose six lakeside buildings the couple have converted into cute holiday cottages.

Lars von Trier fans might recognise the place from the film Dancer in the Dark. "Björk lay on this very lawn, just over there," Maria told us in hushed tones, and we duly paid homage at the patch of grass in question.

But Henriksholm was calling. Staffan drove us to the shore of Ånimmen lake – Windermere-ish in size and shape – via a small supermarket where we stocked up on provisions (Henriksholm being many miles from the nearest shop). Carried the short distance to the island in Staffan's motorboat, we were greeted with fields newly shorn of their hay and a track across them to the house, a shining citadel crowning the heights on the far side of the island.

Built in 1815 by Gustaf Wohlfart, a local big shot, the house had fallen into disrepair when Staffan and Maria bought the island in 1993, precisely 25 years after Staffan had sneakily wild-camped there as a young man and fallen in love with the place. They've since completely renovated the mansion, from its white wooden walls to its green tin roof, and furnished the 24 high-ceilinged rooms with an eclectic assortment of antique pieces bought at auction. We swept in to find the walls adorned with paintings by Scandinavian artists, many showing views of Henriksholm in days gone by.

In the evening, with the candles set out on a long, polished dining table that could have been straight out of Downton Abbey, we feasted to the sound of, well, silence. The quietness that had played about the island like an unseen guest during the day had settled into a stillness that, for city dwellers like us, was almost eerie.

Come morning, when we opened the shutters and light cascaded into our bedroom, the desire to fill the isle with our own noise and energy was pretty much irresistible. So, with the sun beating down hard – apparently such weather is not as rare in Sweden as you might think – we began exploring our temporary fiefdom, escorted by Staffan's companionable Scottie dog, Skugga, who had been allowed to stay with us on the island for a night, much to her delight. We struck out south through woods teeming with rare wild flowers.

"So rare they are protected by Swedish law," Staffan had told us, though some beavers, evidently no respecters of legislative decrees, had chopped down a few of the trees to make themselves a cosy lodge.

With Skugga enthusiastically showing us the way, we finally burst through into the sunlight that was bathing the aptly named Kristallviken or Crystal Bay. We pulled our clothes off (there was no one around for miles) and swam with the breeze lapping the lake into miniature waves.

Lunches we prepared on a table in the sunshine while we nibbled on brown nutty rolls called dinkelbröd. Scarcely can anyone ever have scrubbed potatoes and enjoyed such a delightful view at the same time. Successive stripes of blue cloudless sky, the green forest on the far shore, the placid blue lake and the graceful green trees that sparked into life sporadically with salvos of birdsong.

One morning – yet another one born under a languorous sun – we headed towards the northern end of the island in search of Highland cattle. "There are about a dozen of them," Staffan had said, "but they've gone wild so they're hard to spot and they stand stock still in the densest part of the woods."

We set off over fields adorned with a sprinkling of cranes. In woods jumping with pied wagtails, we helped ourselves to handfuls of alpine strawberries until – hark! – a lowing a little way off. Much quiet stalking later – or as quiet as is possible on a carpet of crunchy pine cones – and we suddenly popped out of the woods on to a rocky shore to catch sight of … a herd of cows on the mainland.

We never did get a glimpse of a furry Highlander, but on our walk back we did stumble across two roe deer – a doe and her fawn – before experiencing a close encounter with a huge white-tailed sea eagle, swooping down on a field next to us.

Henriksholm – despite a large slab of civilisation in the shape of its country pile – is very much about getting a nature fix. There's no television, no internet and the only radio in the house seemed to pick up nothing but local stations with a penchant for obscure 1970s prog rock. As a consequence, our days passed in an almost Zen-like trance as we paddled about in kayaks, photographed wild flowers in the woods, took a trip on the island's motorboat, or idly half-read books on one of the balconies.

And when all the lazy pootling about became a little too blissful, there was one of Sweden's top restaurants just a short drive away from the island on the mainland (within a stone's throw of Stenebynäs). A former schoolhouse, Falkholts Dalslandskrog (+46 531 35070, falkholt.com), run by husband and wife Christer and Carin, specialises in dishes derived from the local forests and lakes, and was commendably unfazed by our veganism. The five courses (yes five!) we were served were among the most sublime we've ever eaten – I expect my tongue to crave the

4Apr/11Off

Sorry Mr Letwin, us Sheffield folk deserve holidays

So Oliver Letwin doesn't want to see people from Sheffield flying away on cheap holidays. He better think again

Here's a refreshingly unspun peek into the soul of the millionaire cabinet – Oliver Letwin's leaked remark that "we don't want more people from Sheffield flying away on cheap holidays". I'm certainly not advocating unlimited access to the skies. But Letwin's remark is not about cheap air travel or global warming, it's about attitude. Air travel is OK for people from the south-east and some areas of London (from which the poor are soon also to be excluded) but not OK for "people from Sheffield". Because "people from Sheffield" is a euphemism for that "c" word we don't use anymore, because we're all equal now, we're all in this together, and the cuts are going to affect us all equally. Yes, "people from Sheffield" means "working class".

And let's face it, nice people winging to our second homes in the Dordogne and Tuscany, or to faraway luxury destinations, are frankly embarrassed by our compatriots who speak weird and drink the wrong kinds of booze, and demand naff food such as crisp butties and brown sauce (ha ha). They should stick to Blackpool or windswept caravan parks on the east coast that cater for those sorts of tastes, where they'll be much happier anyway, because all this travel just makes them restless and dissatisfied, especially when they realise they can't afford it any more.

Just a word of warning, though. People from Sheffield take their leisure seriously. Remember when they decided the Peak District moorland shouldn't be reserved just for shooting parties and grouse? It started with a mass trespass (OK some Mancunians were involved too) but it ended with National Parks and the right to roam. Where will it end this time? I don't know, but the sky's the limit.

Cheap flightsOliver LetwinSheffieldMarina Lewyckaguardian.co.uk
1Apr/11Off

Benidorm – the new costa del cool?

Benidorm, one of Spain's most maligned resorts, is reinventing itself with a five-star boutique hotel, Balinese chill-out lounges and swanky gin bars

First of all, I have to admit to a guilty secret: I quite like Benidorm. This is not something one tends to shout from the rooftops, especially polite, chattering-class rooftops, but there you have it.

The experiences you have in a place shape your opinions to such an extent that it's impossible to be objective. For me, Benidorm was the town where, as a young man, I started working in journalism, for an expat newspaper. I would busily scribble down stories by day while exploring the world of flamenco and getting caught up in a passionate and doomed love affair with a married woman by night.

So the 1960s tower blocks with their rusting balcony rails, chip shops, dance halls and pubs are all lodged in a colourful, thrilling part of my memory next to images of stomping feet and breathless midnight trysts.

Which was where I had left them. Despite now living a couple of hours' drive north of Benidorm, in Valencia, I hadn't been back in over 15 years.

And times have changed. Spain's Costas have been going through a hard time lately. Changing attitudes and continuing recession mean that the once-packed resorts like Torremolinos,